In the Tyrolean hills lies Stanglwirt. A 400-year-old, charmingly eccentric, family-run hotel and eco spa that has something for everyone.
In the know Europeans have been heading to Stanglwirt for wellness, walking and a warm welcome for years, but us Brits have been a bit slow off the mark.
Where is it?
With uninterrupted views of the impressive Wilder Kaiser mountain range, Stanglwirt sits in the heart of the Austrian Tyrol. Though surrounded by verdant farmland (the family who has owned Stanglwirt since 1722 also run a nearby organic farm) and Sound of Music-esque chalets, the hotel is easily accessible from all over Europe and is just over an hour’s drive from three major airports: Munich and Salzburg and Innsbruck in the winter months.
Style
Stanglwirt is as traditional as it gets. The female staff wear traditional dirndl dresses and the hotel itself is a huge Austrian pine lodge. If the walls could speak, they'd probably be singing Edelweiss. Almost every conceivable surface is made of Arolla pine - and it smells heavenly. They say being surrounded by so much pine aids sleep. Whether that’s true or not, I’ve no idea, but sleep well you will at Stanglwirt.
The ethos of Stanglwirt is homeliness; they say ‘welcome home’ at check-in, while both staff and guests alike say ‘Morgen’ as they pass by in the labyrinth of corridors. Everyone is friendly but the place is peaceful. Stanglwirt feels old fashioned in a really comforting way.
Don’t be fooled by the easygoing nature of Stanglwirt, though. This is a five-star hotel and you’ll want for nothing during your stay.
Facilities
Where to begin? For outdoorsy folk there’s hiking, skiing (in the winter months), tennis, golf, natural swimming lakes, mountain biking, climbing, jogging tours, fishing and hunting. The hotel also has a stud of beautiful Lipizzaner horses and its own riding school. Indoor lessons can be watched from one of the hotel’s bars.
It’s the spa and wellness offering that makes Stanglwirt so special, though. First, there are the treatments which are as wide-ranging as they are inventive. From ayurveda and traditional two-handed Hawaiian lomi lomi massages to Dr Barbara Sturm facials and diamond microdermabrasion - plus everything else in between - the menu is a long and interesting read.
Then there’s the sauna complex. There are pine saunas and stone saunas, rock crystal steam baths and salt steam baths. There’s a nude sauna area with a strict ‘no clothes allowed’ policy and a natural swimming pool - swimming naked at the foot of the Austrian Alps is an experience you'll never forget. There are too many relaxation areas to count but all come with views of Wilder Kaiser and some with squidgy waterbeds.
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There are seven swimming pools: some salt water, some natural; one for lengths, one for kids; both indoor and outdoor. During the summer months cosy cocoons and cabanas dot the lawn by the pool and there’s a sunbed drinks service. And that’s the great thing about Stanglwirt, though it has wellness at its heart, there are no controlled diets or eating plans on offer here. Quite the opposite, but more on that below…
Food & drink
From 7-11am there’s a breakfast buffet, which is included in the price of a room. It’s a feast with all tastes and desires catered for. From chocolate drizzled waffles to a goji berry-sprinkled homemade yoghurt and everything else in between, for Stanglwirt it seems that breakfast really is the most important meal of the day. All the milk, butter, yoghurt, cheese and bread is fresh from the family’s organic farm.
The Kamin Bistro is where you’ll head for lunch. In the summer months, sit outside on the terrace; during winter you’ll be warmed by roaring log fires. It’s a relaxed affair and bathrobes are welcome. Here, snack on some late afternoon apple strudel and ice cream or wolf down a hearty helping of pasta. Be warned, the portion sizes at Stanglwirt are huge.
For dinner, it’s a daily changing, seven-course menu at the hotel’s more formal restaurant. It’s an event and you’ll leave absolutely stuffed. If that all gets a bit much there’s also room service with the usual in-room dining options like burgers, sandwiches and spaghetti bolognese.
For an after dinner digestif there’s the hotel’s bar, Auf der Tenne, which regularly has live music.
Which spa treatment?
The Lomi Lomi Nui massage feels almost spiritual. A traditional Hawaiian treatment, strong strokes and flowing movements are used to help loosen physical and emotional blocks. Also known as the ‘loving hands’ massage, the therapist uses long, full body strokes both over and underneath your body to create a cradling effect. You’ll leave feeling relaxed, calm and cared for. It's one of the best massages I've ever had.
Which room?
Opt for a one or two bedroom suite if you can afford it. They all come with a cosy lounge area, open fireplace, walk-in dressing room, huge Arolla pine bed, terrace with outstanding views of the Wilder Kaiser and an in-bathroom sauna.
Best for?
Families, wellness junkies and anyone who enjoys the great outdoors. It makes for a restorative stop on any European road trip. Croatia, for example, is a four-hour drive away.
How to get there
Fly to Innsbruck (1-hour drive), Salzburg (1-hour drive) or Munich (1.5 hour drive). For ease we opted for the hotel’s airport transfer - a private Audi.
When should I go?
Anytime. Go in the summer months for spectacular hikes and sun worshipping, or head there in the colder months for skiing and cosy Christmas merriment. There isn’t a bad time to go to Stanglwirt.
Details
Rates start at €100 per person per night including breakfast. Reservations can be made at stanglwirt.com